One of the highlights on the vinous calendar is the annual
Negociants New Zealand Fine Wine Tour. Primarily
targetting the hospitality and wine trade, Negociants have in recent years opened
the tasting to the public. The tour
features the New Zealand and Australian wineries from the portfolio, and the
proprietors and winemakers pour and discuss their wines. This year, there were 20 New Zealand
exhibitors, and 6 Australians on show, and thus well over 100 wines to
taste. The exhibitors feature some very
high profile names, as well as some lesser known, but the quality of the wines
offered is extremely high. In addition
to having the wines to taste, the tour runs masterclasses which focus on
selected varieties or styles. It’s a
very valuable event to attend. This
year, the tour was held in Auckland, Tauranga, Wellington and
Christchurch.
www.negociantsnz.com
Some of the attendees try to taste all the wines on offer,
to get an overview, while others are very selective and taste the styles or
varieties they are interested in. My
approach nowadays is to spend some time talking to each of the principals, and
taste one wine, a wine of their choice.
The wine poured is not often the most expensive or the flagship, but one
that offers a certain degree of interest.
I record my notes and assign a score, though due to the fairly casual
nature of my tasting, and greater external distractions, I do not add the notes
to my website database. I also like to
take a photo of the principal behind the stand.
This year, I was slower in my work, so only managed to visit the New
Zealand exhibitors. Following are my
photos and wine notes.
Barry Riwai - Alpha Domus
Alpha Domus ‘The
Foxmoth’ Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2014
This is a new wine to the Alpha Domus range, priced to sit
under ‘The Navigator’, made by Kate Galloway, winemaker previous to Barry
Riwai. Dark ruby-red with garnet
hues. This has a full, soft and
voluminous nose, showing savoury and earthy plum aromas, along with spices and
cedar. The fruit is in the more complex
secondary phase. On palate, the
mouthfeel is vibrant and lively, the acidity a counterpoint to the secondary,
savoury and spicy plum flavours. There’s
plenty of richness too, to work with the acidity and the e-/traction lends a
robustness to the wine. The spiciness of
the oaking plays a part and will appeal to many. It’ll be a match for heartier lamb
dishes. 17.5+/20 RRP $24.00
Luc Cowley - Auntsfield
Auntsfield ‘Cob
Cottage’ Marlborough Chardonnay 2014
The oaking on the serious Auntsfield wines is pretty
sophisticated, and lovely on this Chardonnay.
Bright, light straw-yellow colour.
Quite complex on bouquet with an amalgam of citrus fruits, nuts,
stonefruits, a suggestion of flint and rich oak. Not quite settled and together yet. But on palate undeniably good. Vibrantly sweet, rich and succulent citrus,
stonefruit and mealy flavours, excellent lifted oak, all held together by a
fine-textured structure. The fresh
acidity adds to the richness and liveliness, as well as the length. This will come together well with a little
more time. No need for reductive flinty
complexities to add any more interest here!
18.5/20 RRP $52.00
Apologies - No photo of Dave McKee of Black Barn
I can assure you he is a good looking chap
Black Barn Hawke’s
Bay Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2014
A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker Dave McKee has been reducing the
amount of oak in his wines, to allow the fruit speak more clearly. Dark, deep, black-hued ruby-red colour. This is elegant and balanced on the nose with
bright dark plum and ripe red berry fruits.
The expression is primary, and refreshing, with some redcurrant and dark
herb interest. Medium-full bodied, the
wine speak of elegance, balance and proportion, with a tight core of ripe black
plum fruit along with herb, redcurrant and spice detail. The fruit is underlined by fine-grained
structure, and is carried a little by acidity to the finish. This is classical medium-bodied claret-Bordeaux-style,
Right Bank of course, to me.
17.5+/20 RRP $29.00
Heather Stewart, Saint Clair, representing Delta
Delta ‘Hatters Hill’
Marlborough Pinot Noir 2012
The Delta wines are now made at Saint Clair, not surprising
as Neal Ibbotson is a shareholder with Matt Thomson and David Gleave MW. I’ve reviewed that at 5-star previously, but
with some big wines either side, it looked a little lighter today. Deepish garnet with some depth. Very soft, smooth and finely presented on
bouquet with red fruits, lifted florals, dark herbs and a touch of liquorice at
the deep core. Lovely elegance on
palate, with vibrant and sweet red fruits, the acidity lending a zesty
mouthfeel. Fine-grained tannins provide
a sinewy line, and the wine finishes on the acidity. Still very fresh, maybe I’m being a bit hard
on it? 18.0+/20 RRP $35.00
Wilco Lam - Dry River
Dry River
Martinborough Pinot Gris 2009
The Dry River motto is "fine wine takes time”, and
admittedly most of the older bottles I’ve tasted are pretty good. This wine was presented at the Pinot Gris
masterclass by winemaker Wilco Lam, so I got to taste it afterwards. Bright, pale straw-yellow colour, youthful
appearance. The bouquet is very soft,
gentle and harmoniously presented. The aromas
of yellow stonefruits and honey are complexed by a little nutty secondary
detail, but essentially this has got ages ahead. Medium-dry to medium in taste, this has
weight and presence, with soft yellow stonefruits and honey, now laced with a
touch of toastiness. This has a subtle
richness, moderated by a little dry texture and grip. The acidity is soft, allowing the fruit
weight and phenolics carry the wine to the finish. This is starting to dink beautifully
now. 18.5+/20 RRP $N/A
Adam Balasoglou - Fromm
Fromm ‘La Strada’
Marlborough Syrah 2013
The ‘La Strada’ wines have been a godsend for Fromm, making
the iconic ‘Single Vineyard’ wine styles made by Hatsch Kalberer a little more accessible. Dark, deep, ruby-red colour. The bouquet is densely packed with a core of
black bruits, complexed by minerality and subtle savoury earth and game aromas. Surprisingly delicate and poised on palate,
the fruit is lusciously rich with spices and black pepper, along with white
pepper, all enlivened by bright and active acidity. The wine is guided by a line of fine-grained
tannins, and the elegant, piquant black fruits carry through sweetly. I’ve reviewed this a couple of times in the
past, but the freshness and intensity features strongly. My score has gone up a bit. 18.0/20
RRP $39.00
Richard Ellis - Greywacke
Greywacke Marlborough
Pinot Noir 2014
Something about Kevin Judd’s wines get to my soul. They can be as funky as any out there, but
they always have fruit richness and sweetness.
This is dark ruby-red colour with a dark heart. On the nose, seemingly elegant but the
concentration quickly grows and the multi-layered nature becomes revealed. Dark red berry fruits complexed by savoury
herbs, spice notes and maybe some whole cluster stalk perfume. There’s a steely freshness of youth underneath
it all. The palate is tightly bound, but
the fruit succulence is clear. The fruit
is vibrant, the mouthfeel lively and finely balanced by fine-grained
tannins. Complex liquorice and spicy oak
flavours unfold. Classic Pinot Noir, I’m
not sure, but I love this youngster.
19.0-/20 RRP $48.00
Morven McAulay - Huia
Huia Marlborough
Chardonnay 2014
Mike and Claire Allan’s wines show their quiet confidence of
years of winegrowing and winemaking experience.
It’s subtle complexity at the heart of the wines that gives them their
style. Occasionally, there’s something
that breaks the mould and can be pretty edgy.
Bright, light golden-hued straw-yellow.
This has a rich and concentrated nose of considerable presence and layers
of complexing aromatics. Ripe and
savoury stonefruits, mealy and biscutty notes, nuts, oak and a burgundian
oxidative element. The palate reflects
the nose, with layers of fruit, oak, lees, and oxidative flavours. The fruit is rich and vibrant and the palate
lively with plenty of drive and energy.
If you can handle the nutty, oxidative complexity, then this is a star. I like it very much. 18.5/20
RRP $39.00
Andy Wilkinson - Misha's Vineyard
Misha’s Vineyard ‘Dress
Circle’ Central Otago Pinot Gris 2015
I reviewed this at the start of the year when it was released
earlier than planned, due to high sales of the 2014 vintage. Bright pale straw-yellow, this has a full,
softly rich aromatic nose of yellow stonefruits with honeysuckle and some
nuances of nuts at the core. Off-dry to
taste, the palate has grown in richness, depth and power, still showing
stonefruits, pears and honeysuckle, maybe at the expense of the exotic detail I
originally saw. It’s a fair trade-off
today, as it’s all about finesse, depth and texture. The mouthfeel is brilliant and bright, fresh
and crisp, with a very fine, concentrated core, and very long finish. 18.5+/20
RRP $29.00
Erin Harrison, Business Development and Fin Grieve, Vineyard Manager
Mt Beautiful
Mt Beautiful North
Canterbury Riesling 2015
Riesling has probably been the variety with the most
potential for Mt Beautiful, and this 2015 is arguably the best yet, fulfilling the
promise. Bright, pale straw-yellow with
slight lemon hues. This has lovely lime,
sherbet and honeysuckle aromas, along with beautiful (no pun intended) exotic florals, the
backbone being fresh citrus fruits.
Off-dry to taste, the palate is crisp, zesty and tight, pure and clean
with linearity and purpose. There’s a
fine balance between the refine phenolic libe and acidity, the fruit still
tightly bound. This is focussed and
intense. It will develop well. 11.5% alc., 14.8 g/L RS, TA 9.5 g/L and pH 3.02. 18.5/20
RRP $26.00
Clive Jones - Nautilus
Nautilus Marlborough
Chardonnay 2015
Clive Jones has long crafted Chardonnays of elegance. For the casual drinker they are clean and
refreshing with subtle flavours that please.
On the show circuit, they can be hit or miss. Sensitive judges will see the detail and
quiet complexity of the wines, but often they get lost in the crowd or are
placed next to a more up-front wine. I’ve
fallen into the trap regularly. Brilliant straw-yellow. The nose is very tight, very refined and very
elegant in expression with restrained citrus and white stonefruits. There’s no lack of concentration, and the
detailing of oak, barrel-ferment and lees emerges quietly. The palate has richness and succulence, but
with fine proportion. Citrus fruits,
stonefruits, nuts and balanced oaking. A
beautifully fine linearity and soft, crisp acidity. Sheer elegance. 18.5+/20
RRP $35.00
Brett Bermingham - Opawa
Opawa Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Brett Bermingham, Clive Jones’ right hand man at Nautilus is
responsible for the second label Opawa wines.
As the fruit resource has improved, so has the quality risen. The style is more open and friendly, a bit
like Brett. Straw-yellow colour. The nose shows soft, broad and voluminous aromas
of easy tropical fruits harmoniously melded with savoury stonefruits and
gooseberries and yellow capsicums. It’s
not a searing green style. Still fresh
and crisp on palate, the acidity is countered by the soft tropical fruit and
cooked gooseberry flavours, and yellow capsicums. The palate is guided by a fine phenolic line,
but the acidity keeps the wine flowing.
17.5/20 RRP $15.00
Allan Johnson - Palliser Estate
pointing to where he thinks is the best place to make wine
Palliser Estate
Martinborough Pinot Gris 2009
Presented by winemaker Allan Johnson at the masterclass. Showing an interesting side of bottle age
towards power, intensity and dryness.
This is 13.5% alc. and 8-9 g/L RS.
Bright pale golden colour with some depth. The nose is firmly concentrated and tightly
bound with yellow stonefruit aromas along with nutty secondary development and
savoury minerals. There are only
vestiges of florals and honey. Dryish to
taste and full-weighted, this has power and drive on the palate, with real
presence and linearity. The mouthfeel
possesses fresh acidity, the textures beginning to dry a/little, but the finish
s soft, with honied notes emerging. This
will be good food matching wine.
18.0/20 RRP $N/A
Pete Eastwood - Rippon
Rippon ‘Rippon’ ‘Mature
Vine’ Lake Wanaka Central Otago Riesling 2013
I don’t get to see the rare Rippon wines often, but they
impress, especially those with vine age.
This ‘Mature Vine’ Riesling is 11.5% alc. and 8.2 g/L RS. Bright straw-yellow colour with pale golden
hues. The bouquet exudes presence and
richness, allied to freshness. Lime
fruit, stonefruits and plenty of minerality, very harmonious in presentation,
with a warmth and generosity, while retaining its essential Central Otago cool
edge. Dry to taste, and tightly bound
with a substantial core, but on the side of elegance rather than size. Crisp acidity enhances the lime expression
and minerals, and the palate is simply rich, but mouthwatering. This has remarkable opposites which work
together so well. 18.5+/20 RRP $37.00
Stewart Maclennan - Saint Clair
Saint Clair ‘Pioneer
Block 10 – Twin Hills’ Marlborough Chardonnay 2015
Clone 95 and Mendoza from Omaka, aged 8-10 months 45% new
French oak. We tend to forget that Saint
Clair’s most successful wines initially were the Chardonnays. They remain as flavoursome as ever. Pale golden yellow. The nose is soft and somewhat ethereal in
expression, unfolding rich aromatic layers of vanilla oak, creamy
barrel-ferment, butter, then ripe tropical fruit. Rich flavoured, but subtly so, on palate with
stonefruits, citrus fruits and tropical fruits, laced with vanilla-like
oak. This is still very tight, and the
acidity features as a component. Just
you wait, this is going to get pretty serious in a year or two. 18.0+/20
RRP $32.00
Jacqui Murphy - Two Paddocks
Two Paddocks ‘Proprietor’s
Reserve’ ‘The First Paddock’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011
Served from 1.5 L magnum, clone 5 fruit planted in 1993,
ungrafted, in the Gibbston Valley. Even garnet
red colour with some depth, a little lighter edged. The bouquet is soft and deep, with the
componentry harmoniously integrated, showing savoury earth, game and cedar,
subtle dried thyme herbs. This is quite
complete on the nose. On palate, the
cooler Gibbston site is revealed in the crisp acidity and leanness of
proportion. Complex, savoury and
secondary in taste with red fruits, herbs, game. There is harmony of flavour, but the acidity
and tannins are firm and prominent.
There’s no doubting the depth and core of this wine. It will continue to keep. Here, sub-regionality has taken hold. 18.0+/20
RRP $173.00
Carol Bunn - Urlar
Urlar ‘Select Parcels’
Gladstone Pinot Noir 2013
New winemaker Carol Bunn was assisting proprietor Angus
Thomson pour the wines, those currently available made by Guy McMaster. Deep garnet-red colour with traces of
youthful purple. The nose is full, deep
and firmly packed with layers of complex secondary savoury aromas, with red
berry fruits, dried herbs and game. The
fruit is still the hero though. On
palate deceptively sweet and rich after the savoury aromatics, quite lusciously
spicy, then the savoury dried herbs emerge.
This has considerable structure and the mouthfeel a sinewy flow. This is constructed seriously and will keep
well. A very valid expression of high
class Pinot Noir. Asked what she’d do
differently, Carol would see some more fruitiness come through. So some tweaking ahead. 18.5+/20
RRP $61.00
Nick Nobilo - Vinoptima
Vinoptima ‘Reserve’
Ormond Gewurztraminer 2010
With an illustrious winemaking background stretching back 55
years, one can only expect special wines from Nick Nobilo. This Gewurztraminer is indeed that. Bright, light golden yellow. This has a full and opulent bouquet with ripe
aromas of exotic fruits, honey, musk and lychees. The aromatics have a density which shows
there’s still more to come. Medium in
sweetness, the palate is rich and powerful, the mouthfeel the result of
considerable phenolics, but balanced by the sweetness. This is integrated and balanced, with
attractive honey, savoury musk of secondary detail and exotic florals providing
complexing detail. All the while, the
phenolic power drives the wine. This is
in the classical Alsace style. 13.5%
alc., and 21 g/L RS. 18.5+/20 RRP $74.00
Scott Berry - Waipara Springs
Waipara Springs
Waipara Pinot Gris 2014
Winemaker Scott Berry is another seeing the bright side of
fruit expression, rather than trying to trick everything up into
complexity. Some wines just look better
when the fruit is on the pedestal. This
Pinot Gris, presented at the masterclass is unworked and 12.5% alc. and 4 g/L
RS. Bright, light straw-yellow colour
with some gold at the heart. The nose is
rich and voluminous with exotic tropical fruits along with honied notes. It’s up-front and uncomplicated, and a
delight. Very clean, clear and crisp on
palate, there is a tight core, but sufficient sweetness to lend a
lusciousness. White and yellow
stonefruits, florals, honeysuckle and tropical fruits show. The mouthfeel is zesty and refreshing, with fine
textures and acidity. Drinking well now,
but no hurry. 17.5+/20 RRP $N/A
What I Missed Out
As I always the case, it is difficult to do justice to every
exhibitor. Each had a range of wines to
show, and as mentioned earlier, some of the wine I could have tasted were
flagship or the more prestigious wines.
Instead, the winemakers selected what might be interesting or new. As can be seen from my comments and ratings,
the quality was still very, very high.
This year, again, I failed to visit ‘Joiy’ the successful Rieslings made by Chris Archer. These wines and innovative mixers are becoming
very popular on the global market. I was
also remiss in visiting ‘Antipodes Water’,
the official partner to the Negociants wine portfolio. The Antipodes story is a positive New Zealand
one too, and the product is first class.
The Australian wines in the Negociants N.Z. portfolio is
extremely strong, so I missed out tasting the likes of Brokenwood
‘Graveyard’ Shiraz 2013 (RRP $192.00), Henschke
‘Mount Edelstone’ 2012 (well, I lie here, I did have a little sip – and
gorgeously rich and elegant, with spice and mint), (RRP $182.00), Jim Barry ‘The Armagh’ 2012 (RRP
$273.00), Langmeil ‘Orphan Bank’
Shiraz 2012 (RRP $74.00), Vasse Felix
‘Heytesbury’ Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (RRP $96.00), and the Yalumba ‘The Virgilius’ Eden Valley
Viognier 2013 (RRP $54.00).
I wish I had another half day, or had worked a bit quicker,
instead of talking too much!
Johann & Angela Henschke - Henschke
Acknowledgement
Acknowledgement must be given to the exhibitors and
Negociants N.Z. team for organising such a terrific event for the wine and
hospitality trade and also for the public.
I’ll be looking forward to it next year.