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Elephant Hill – New Releases from Te Awanga

28 May,2012
Elephant Hill was established by Reydan and Roger Weiss from Germany following a visit to Te Awanga in 2001. In 2003, they established 25 ha of vineyard to produce wines at the highest level of quality reflecting their origins. The vines enjoy the maritime influence of the Te Awanga district which is cooler than sites further inland and are planted in a variety of soils from shingle-sand to fine clay and silt. The varieties planted are Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Viognier and Chardonnay in the whites with Merlot and Syrah in red. Brittany Thompson is the viticulturist and the winemaking is under the care of Steve Skinner who was with Trinity Hill prior. Steve made the inaugural 2007 wines off-site, with the 2008s made in the newly commissioned and no-expenses spared winery on-site in 2008. The contemporary restaurant has enjoyed top reviews and is highly recommended. Here are my reviews of a selection of the latest releases from this high profile, up-and coming Hawke's Bay winery, which has a particularly strong reputation for Syrah already. www.elephanthill.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011

Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

16.5-/20

Bright, very pale straw-yellow colour, light on rim. The bouquet is very tight, elegant and refined with subtle gooseberry aromas with nuances of fresh herbs, tropical fruits and smoke. Dry and medium-bodied, light, restrained flavours of gooseberries herbs and limes show with some brightness and juiciness, the wine with good body and weight. A textural thread runs the line of the palate but the mouthfeel is soft and fine, the acidity in balance. Gentle herb and mineral flavours show on a moderately sustained finish. This is a gentle, but fresh and juicy Sauvignon Blanc with some presence to match antipasto, seafood and poultry over the next 2-3 years. Hand-picked fruit, WBP and indigenous yeast fermented at cool temperatures to 12.6% alc. and 3.1 g/L rs, the wine aged on lees for 3 months. 16.5-/20 May 2012 RRP $22.00

Elephant Hill ‘Reserve' Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

17.5/20

Te Awanga fruit hand-picked and WBP, cool-fermented to 13.5% alc. and 3 g/L rs, the wine aged 6 months in oak with batonnage. Brilliant straw-yellow colour with some lemon hues. This has a powerful and concentrated, intense grassy nose with aromas of fresh mint herbs, gooseberries and some secondary bean notes. The oaking adds a hint of spice. Dry, and medium-full bodied, this has power and weight, showing deep flavours of grass and herbs with a little bean-like development. The fruit is piquant and rich, and some alcohol drives the palate. Crisp and lively acidity lends a racy drying texture carrying through to a long finish featuring herb flavours. This full and intense Sauvignon Blanc is lively and flavoursome, and beginning to show some flavour development. Serve with herb encrusted poultry and pork dishes over the next 2-3+ years. 17.5+/20 May 2012 RRP $29.00

Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Gewurztraminer 2011

Gewurztraminer from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

17+/20

Brilliant straw-yellow colour with lemon hues. The bouquet is very tightly bound, revealing delicate rose and red floral perfumes with minerally notes forming a good core. Dryish to taste, the flavours of roses and Turkish Delight are initially shy, but open with fresh acidity and build with richness. There is alcohol drive, and the mouthfeel is moderately unctuous and oily in texture. The finish has spices and florals with good depth and is carried by some residual sweetness. This is a tightly bound and concentrated Gewurztraminer that will unfold more spicy flavour to match the rich textures over the next 3-4+ years. Match with Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine. Fruit hand-picked and WBP, fermented with 10% in barrel, to 14.0% alc. and 11 g/L rs. The wine was aged 4 months in 1 y.o. oak with minimum lees stirring. 17.0+/20 May 2012 RRP $29.00

Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2010

Chardonnay from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

18/20

Te Awanga fruit hand-picked and WBP, and indigenous yeast fermented to 13.8% alc., the wine aged 11 months on lees in 40% new French oak barriques, with no MLF. Bright straw-yellow colour with lemon-gold hues. This has an elegant but concentrated nose of ripe citrus fruits intermixed with aromas of mealy, nutty elements, spices and toasty oak forming a complex, steely amalgam. Medium-full bodied, this is still tight and restrained in expression. Ripe, savoury citrus grow to form an intense and concentrated core, with layers of nutty, toast oak and mealy, flinty nuances unfolding. Bright acidity underlines the palate and balances the subtly creamy barrel-ferment textures leading to a very long, rich, citrussy, nutty finish. This is a tight and concentrated, crisp Chardonnay with classic citrussy fruit and spicy, nutty oak interest that will develop over the next 4-5+ years. Serve with grilled and roasted seafood and poultry. 18.0/20 May 2012 RRP $29.00

Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Merlot 2009

Merlot from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

17.5/20

This is Lot L0990, the second bottling of this label. Fruit from the company’s hillside Te Awanga vineyard fermented to 13.2% alc., the wine aged in new oak barriques. Very dark, deep, black-hued ruby-red colour with some purple hues. This has a soft and fulsome bouquet of ripe black plum fruits with black ink and port-like notes, the nose revealing oak spices and cedary elements in the glass. Medium-full bodied, ripe black berry and plum fruit flavours show alongside port, roasted meat and inky notes. The mouthfeel is full and rounded with restrained acidity, and supple tannin grip underlining the fruit. This has plenty weight and depth, with the structure carrying the palate. The wine finishes with light, sweet fruit and oak spice nuance. This is a ripe, black-fruited Merlot with ink and porty notes and plenty of density and mouthfeel. Serve with slow-cooked game meat over the next 5-6 years. 17.5/20 Apr 2013 RRP $24.00

Very dark, deep, near impenetrable hearted black-red colour. The nose is fresh fruited and elegant with softly concentrated aromas of ripe black and red plum and berry fruits, lifted with oak spices and liquorice. Medium-full bodied, this is finely proportioned with flavours of ripe black plums and spicy oak with toasty nuances. Fresh acidity is a feature and provides drive through the palate. The tannin extraction is restrained, resulting in fine, soft textures. This has a long finish of spiced, dark berry fruits. This is an elegant and sleek, contemporary Merlot to match with roasted lamb and beef over the next 5-6+ years. Merlot from the company's hillside vineyard overlooking Cape Kidnappers fermented to 13.2% alc., the wine aged in new oak barriques. 17.5+/20 May 2012 RRP $24.00

Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Syrah 2010 (Lot 2)

Syrah from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

18/20

Fruit from the Gimblett Gravels, hand-picked, destemmed and fermented to 14.3% alc. The wine was aged 18 months in 50% new French oak barriques. Lot L1030. Very full and saturated black-purple colour, this has a softly rich and ripe, lush nose of black plums and boysenberry fruit, along with nuances of liquorice, black pepper and dark raspberry confectionary. Full-bodied, this is open and bold, and full of dark plum and liquorice fruit flavours spiced with black pepper and iron-earth. Fine-grained tannins build to show considerable extraction underlining the fruit. The succulent fruit becomes encased by the structure and the mouthfeel is rounded and dry, with low acidity. The finish has density and robustness, the drying tannins being the feature. Match this fulsome and densely packed Syrah with casseroles and hearty red meat dishes over the next 6-8+ years. 18.0/20 May 2012 RRP $34.00

Elephant Hill ‘Reserve' Hawke's Bay Syrah 2009

Syrah from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

18.5/20

Very dark, deep, saturated black-purple colour. The bouquet is well concentrated but elegant in presentation with bright, fresh, black berry fruits and complexing savoury game nuances alongside black pepper and dark red floral detail. Medium-full bodied, this is concentrated but stylishly proportioned on palate with lively black berry fruits, liquorice and spices along with savoury, minerally elements. The fruit is clean and crisply defined by bright acidity, and supported by fine-grained tannins. There is an acid raciness to the mouthfeel. The wine has a long and sustained finish with lush liquorice and spice flavours and good acidity. This is a succulent and balanced wine with freshness, good structure and an elegance to match pork and veal main courses, or to serve with firm cheeses over the next 5-8 years. Estate Syrah MS and Chave clone fruit, with 1% Viognier, destemmed and fermented with whole berries to 13.2% alc., the wine aged 16 months in all new French oak barriques. 18.5/20 May 2012 RRP $49.00

Elephant Hill ‘Airavata' Hawke's Bay Syrah 2009

Syrah from New Zealand – Hawke’s Bay

19/20

‘Airavata' is the Hindu king-god of elephants and is the label for exceptional releases. This is the third such wine, the previous being a Sauvignon Blanc and a 2009 Viognier. Hand-picked Syrah fruit with a small percentage of Viognier and warm-fermented with a portion of whole clusters to 13.6% alc. The wine spent 14-18 days on skins and aged 20 months in French oak barrels. Full, saturated black-red colour, with youthful purple hues. Full, concentrated and dense aromas of very ripe black plum and berry fruits slowly open to reveal layers of savoury game, meat, graphite and cedar nuances in the glass. This is full-bodied and densely packed with black fruit flavours interwoven with spices, game and earth with black pepper elements. Underlying acidity and very fine tannins lend a suppleness to the mouthfeel and a sense of refinement for the size. This is fully-structured, but balanced by the richness of the fruit. Waves of liquorice, dark plums and chocolate gradually unfold on the long finish. This is a ripe, broodingly concentrated and multi-layered Syrah that will develop over the next 10-12+ years. Serve with slow-cooked red meat. 19.0/20 May 2012 RRP $80.00

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