Featured Reviews




Haythornthwaite – Martinborough Spice

15 June,2012
While Mark and Susan Haythornthwaite have their 4.45 ha vineyard on the Martinborough Terrace and produce a classical Pinot Noir, they have become known as specialists in Gewurztraminer. Situated on Omarere Road amidst other proven vineyards, the Haythornthwaite Vineyard was established in 1992 with 3.25 ha planted then, the remainder over 2005 and 2006. Their first release was a 1997 Pinot Noir, and the variety has gone on to be the most successful for them. Besides Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris is planted, with some Sauvignon Blanc sourced locally. All the vines are on phylloxera resistant rootstock and the Haythornthwaites have several clones of Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer for complexity, but use the proven old ‘Mission' Pinot Gris clone solely. Though Mark and Susan work in the corporate world, they are fully-hands-on in the operation. The Haythornthwaites have Glenn Smith as their vineyard manager and veteran Chris Buring as their contracted winemaker. Each of the wines carries the name of a family member or close friend, and this has proven to be a striking point of difference on the labels. Here is a selection of new and current release wines. www.haythornthwaite.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Haythornthwaite ‘Ursula' Martinborough Pinot Gris 2011

Pinot Gris from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

16.5+/20

Bright straw-yellow colour, pale on rim. This bouquet is restrained in expression, but with good volume and density, showing yellow stonefruit aromas with subtle tropical fruit, honey and minerally notes. Dry to taste, and medium-full bodied, flavours of ripe yellow stonefruits and apricots form an openly accessible, but dense palate that unfolds savoury spices and honey. There is warmth and a slight phenolic textural thread that underlines the mouthfeel. Moderate acidity and fruit weight provide some roundness which is enhanced by some sweet, honied nuances on the finish. This is a full, accessible and rounded Pinot Gris with the texture to match Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine over the next 3-4+ years. Hand-picked fruit WBP and cool-fermented to 12.1% alc. and 3.12 g/L rs. 16.5+/20 Jun 2012 RRP $29.00

Haythornthwaite ‘Susan' Martinborough Dry Gewurztraminer 2010

Gewurztraminer from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

17+/20

Bright straw-yellow colour with pale green hues, light on rim. This has a fresh nose with volume and depth, the fruit a little reserved in expression. Earthy ginger, lychees and exotic florals intermingle with herb notes, the aromatics showing an ethereal delicacy. Dry and full-bodied, this has weight and alcohol drive through the palate. The floral and spicy fruit is restrained but shows with purity. Moderately low acidity contributes to the soft mouthfeel and textures. This has good presence, and the wine finishes with perfumed and spice nuances along with the characteristic varietal bitterness. Though subtle flavoured, this has the body and power to match pork, ham and hearty Mediterranean cuisine over the next 4-5 years. Fruit hand-picked, WBP and cool-fermented to 14.5% alc. and 3.0 g/L rs, 17.0+/20 Jun 2012 RRP $37.00

Haythornthwaite ‘Susan' Martinborough Gewurztraminer 2008

Gewurztraminer from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

17.5-/20

Hand-picked fruit, WBP and cool-fermented to 13.0% alc. and 10.35 g/L rs. Brilliant, full, light golden-yellow colour with some lemon-green hues. The bouquet is open and broadly presented with rich creaming soda, honey and tropical fruit aromas, along with some secondary hair-oil like notes. Off-dry, this has gently rich flavours of honey, ginger and exotic fruits, intermingling with hair-oil secondary flavours. Low acidity and fine phenolics lend a smooth and harmonious mouthfeel to the palate. The flavours flow seamlessly, but are kept fresh with balanced acidity. Subtle luscious fruit and honey nuances show on the finish. This Gewurztraminer has developed graciously and harmoniously. Drink as a aperitif and with Asian cuisine over the next 3-4 years. 17.5-/20 Jun 2012 RRP $37.00

Haythornthwaite ‘Pamela' Martinborough Auslese Gewurztraminer 2011

Sweet Wine from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18.5-/20

Soft, light golden-yellow colour with straw hues, pale on rim. This has fresh, ripe yellow stonefruit, Turkish Delight, lychee and honey aromas with layers of herbs, ginger and pepper, along with perfumed talc interest that fills the bouquet with detail. Medium-sweet to taste, rich and lush flavours of honey, spices and caramel intermingle with florals and talc. This is broad and mouthfilling with an oily, unctuous texture, the low acidity enhancing the depth and weight. A smooth and concentrated wine, this has an exotic creaminess that makes it quite decadent. The richness and subtly spiced honey notes linger on the finish. This is a full, rich and honied Gewurztraminer with unctuousness. Fruit from the ‘Haythornthwaite' hand-picked, WBP and cool-fermented to 9.4% alc. and 80.5 g/L rs. Serve on its own or match with light, creamy desserts or with cheeses over the next 4-5+ years. 18.5-/20 Jun 2012 RRP $37.00

Haythornthwaite ‘Maureen' Martinborough Noble Gewurz 2011

Sweet Wine from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18.5/20

A selection of fully botrytised Gewurztraminer fruit WBP and fermented to 8.4% alc. and 183.5 g/L rs. Bright, even, light golden-yellow colour. The bouquet is full with intense and concentrated aromas of honied marmalade, ginger and spices, with savoury complexities and mineral elements. Very sweet, the palate has a degree of elegance and cut from racy acidity. Bright flavours of wild honey and spiced marmalade from botrytis are enriched by notes of exotic fruits and caramel. This has drive and energy, the balance with acidity providing excellent tension. Smooth lush textures add to the decadence and carry through to a long honied finish. This is an elegant and balanced dessert-style Gewurztraminer with exotic and complex botrytis characters. Serve with crème caramel, crème brulee and similarly rich desserts over the next 5-7 years. (375 ml) 18.5/20 Jun 2012 RRP $37.00

Haythornthwaite ‘Catherine' Martinborough ‘Petit' Pinot 2006

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

16+/20

Fullish, dark garnet-red colour with some bricking on edge. The nose is full with complex, lifted aromas of game, savoury meat and secondary forest floor notes with ripe, red berry fruit characters well integrated. Medium-full bodied, bold, rich and sweetly lifted, dark red berry fruit and savoury mushroom flavours fill the palate. Layers of secondary forest-floor elements are present, enlivened by good acidity. The tannin structure becomes prominent and leads to a dry, firm finish. This bold and reasonably robust Pinot Noir is now showing plenty of development characters. Match with gamey meat dishes over the next 4-6 years. Fruit from three vineyards in Martinborough and one site near Masterton., fully destemmed and fermented to 13.7% alc., the wine given 12 days on skins then aged 9 months in 1-3 y.o. French oak barrels. 16.0+/20 Jun 2012 RRP $29.00

Haythornthwaite ‘Beverley' Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

17+/20

Abel, Pommard and 10/5 clone fruit from the ‘Haythornthwaite' vineyard hand-picked, fully destemmed and fermented to 13.8% alc., the wine given 12 days on skins, then aged 9 months in new to 3 y.o. French oak barrels. Near-full and even ruby-garnet colour. This has an elegant and subtly building bouquet with archetype, ripe Martinborough savoury red berry aromas interwoven with dark, dried herbs and earthy complexities. Medium-bodied, the palate features harmoniously interwoven flavours of gamey red berry fruits with restrained mushroom and savoury herb elements. The tannins are soft, gentle and supple, quite fine-grained and the acidity discreet, resulting in a smooth, flowing mouthfeel. The finish is moderately long with light, but sweet fruit and earthy notes well-combined. This harmonious and interwoven Pinot Noir has moderate richness and savoury development. Serve with mushroom risotto and slow-cooked game meats over the next 4-5 years. 17.0+/20 Jun 2012 RRP $49.00

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