Featured Reviews




Paddy Borthwick 2014 Pinot Gris, and 2011 Left Hand and Right Hand Pinot Noirs

29 April,2015
Paddy Borthwick is one of the Wairarapa’s most experienced winemakers having completed 35 vintages. He and his assistant winemaker Braden Crosby, who have worked together for 11 years make a very strong and consistent range of wines from the Borthwick family’s 27 ha vineyard in Gladstone. The wines are fine examples of Wairarapa and New Zealand wines that have found considerable favour in export markets, as well as domestically. Here I review the new release 2014 Pinot Gris, and also two more individual Pinot Noir wines from the 2011 vintage, a ‘Left Hand’ and a ‘Right Hand’ wine, these expressing the different personalities of the winemakers. The left-handed winemaker is Braden, who is "logical, creative and precise”, and the right-handed winemaker is Paddy, who is "intuitive, impulsive and thoughtful”. It was recently announced that Braden will be leaving Borthwick Vineyard soon, so left-handed winemakers only need apply for the position! www.borthwick.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Pinot Gris 2014

Pinot Gris from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

16.5/20
Bright straw-yellow colour with light golden hues, paler on rim. The nose is softly full with good depth and concentration of yellow stonefruits and exotic yellow florals lifted by aromatic esters, revealing some honeysuckle and confectionary elements in the glass. Dryish to taste and medium-full bodied, moderately rich yellow stonefruit flavours are melded with lifted florals and esters. This has good weight and presence with underlying alcoholic power and drive. The mouthfeel has freshness with balanced acidity which adds to the energy and line. The palate leads to a fine-textured, dry, sustained finish with lifted aromatic notes. This is a soft, aromatic dryish Pinot Gris with some alcoholic power. Match with Middle Eastern and Asian fare over the next 3+ years. Fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard, Gladstone from 7 and 8 y.o. vines, 33% fermented and aged in seasoned oak to 14.5% alc. and 4.5 g/L RS, the wine spending 9 months on lees. 16.5/20 Apr 2015 RRP $24.00

Paddy Borthwick ‘Left Hand’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2011

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18+/20
Ruby-red colour with some depth, paler on rim with light purple hues. This has an elegantly presented nose with fine, concentrated aromas of red berry fruits entwined with mineral and nutty oak elements, unfolding ethereal red florals and dark herbal detail with aeration. Medium-bodied, the palate is tightly bound with a concentrated core of red cherry and berry fruit flavours along with herb, liquorice and fennel notes. The fruit is subtly rich and is enlivened by lacy acidity that results in excellent linearity. The wine follows a very fine-grained tannin line that leads to a long, lingering finish of herbs and liquorice. This is a tightly bound, elegant and fine-structured Pinot Noir with ethereal cherry, herb and liquorice flavours. Match with herb-marinated poultry, pork and casserole dishes over the next 5-6+ years. Wine made by Braden Crosby to reflect his "logical, creative and precise” personality. Pinot Noir fruit, Abel and clones 375 and 5, indigenous yeast fermented to 14.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. 840 bottles made. 18.0+/20 Apr 2015 RRP $55.00

Paddy Borthwick ‘Right Hand’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2011

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18.5/20
Even ruby-red colour with slight garnet hues, lighter on rim. This has a full and concentrated nose of ripe dark red and black berried fruits that gently blossoms to show dark raspberries, herbs, spices earth and liquorice elements. Medium-full bodied, fleshy and sweet flavours of dark raspberries fill the mouth. The wine is open in structure and accessible, with fine, supple tannins and fresh, piquant acidity adding to the liveliness and freshness of the mouthfeel. As the wine flows, nuances of raspberry liqueur, fennel and herbs emerge and are carried by the tannins to a long fine-grained, lingering finish with bright raspberry fruit. This is a full, openly accessible Pinot Noir with bright raspberry fruit and a lively, supple palate. Match with poultry, pork, beef and lamb over the next 5-6 years. Wine made by Paddy Borthwick to reflect his "intuitive, impulsive and thoughtful” personality. Pinot Noir fruit, Abel and clones 115 and 5 fermented to 14.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 45% new French oak. 840 bottles made. 18.5/20 Apr 2015 RRP $55.00
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