Featured Reviews




Paddy Borthwick 2016 Rosé and Riesling, and 2013 LH and RH Pinot Noirs

16 December,2016
The Borthwick vineyard on Dakins Road, Gladstone is an integral part of the Borthwick family’s farming operation. The winegrowing and making is under the responsibility of Paddy Borthwick, whose youthful looks belie his industry experience which extends over 35 vintages. The 27 ha vineyard, established in 1996 is managed by Paddy, Lisa Hodson and Anne Behrent, and the production of high quality wines is primarily exported, though there is a very good domestic presence too. Here, I review the new 2016 Pinot Rosé and Riesling, as well as the 2013 ‘Left Hand’ and ‘Right Hand’ Pinot Noirs, crafted to reflect the "logical, creative and precise” personality of assistant winemaker Braden Crosby (who has now departed), and the "intuitive, impulsive and thoughtful” nature of Paddy Borthwick respectively. The two winemakers each selected their preferred parcels of fruit and made the wines with their personal inputs and made barrel selections to show what they thought would be the bet expression of the Borthwick Estate vineyard. The inaugural vintage of these wines was 2011 (click here to see my reviews), and the wines were also made in 2014 before Braden left. www.borthwick.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Pinot Rosé 2016

Rose from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

16.5+/20
Bright, pale candyfloss pink colour with some depth, very light on the rim. The nose is fresh with soft and gently aromatic aromas of strawberries, red florals and nuances of watermelon and herbs, unfolding suggestions of fermentation esters and confectionary. Dry to taste and light-medium bodied, the palate possesses light, delicate flavours of strawberries, soft red florals and subtle, savoury watermelon elements. The fruit forms an elegant core and the flavours are underlined by light, dry textures. The mouthfeel is thirst quenching with integrated acidity, and the wine crries to a light, slender, lingering finish of strawberries and watermelon. This is a light, delicately fruited dry rosé with flavours of strawberries and watermelon on a softly mouthwatering palate. Serve as an aperitif and with canapes over the next 2 years. A multi-clonal Pinot Noir selection picked early, given 12 hours skin contact and cool-fermented to 13.0% alc. and 2.0 g/L RS. 16.5+/20 Dec 2016 RRP $21.00

Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Riesling 2016

Riesling from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18/20
Bright, light straw-yellow colour with slight green hues, near colourless on the rim. The nose is very fresh and finely presented, showing moderately taut, but intense aromas of lime fruit along with exotic tangerine notes, lifted white florals, hint of sherbet and honeysuckle. Dry to taste and light-bodied, the palate is tightly bound with good intensity and depth of lime and tangerine fruit, entwined with aromatic white florals and sherbet notes. The mouthfeel is smooth and flowing, guided by soft textures with fresh, lacy acidity lending poise and a mouthwatering line. The wine carries to a dry finish with lime and floral flavours. This is an elegant dry Riesling with good depth and intensity of lime and exotic citrus fruits with a smooth-flowing, poised, thirst-quenching mouthfeel. Serve as an aperitif and with Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese cuisine over the next 4-5 years. Clone 239 fruit from one hectare, vines planted in 2010, cool-fermented to 10.2% alc. and 4.5 g/L RS, TA 7.2 g/L and pH 3.06. 18.0/20 Dec 2016 RRP $21.00

Paddy Borthwick ‘Left Hand’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2013

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18.5/20
Moderately dark, deep, ruby-red colour with slight purple hues, lighter on the edge, and youthful in appearance. The nose is up-front with plump and well-concentrated aromas of ripe dark-red berry and cherry fruit along with savoury dark plum notes. The fruit aromas are entwined with dark herbal nuances, unfolding fragrant florals. The aromatics are harmonious in presentation. Medium-full bodied, the palate is full with sweetly rich, ripe flavours of dark-red berry and cherry fruit along with savoury plums. This is fleshy and lush, and the fruit is supported by fine-grained supple tannins. The acidity is soft and ripe, and well-integrated, and the fruit is carried by the structure to a long and sustained finish of dark plums. This is a full, sweetly rich, plump Pinot Noir with dark berry, cherry and plum flavours on a fleshy, well-structured and balanced palate. Serve ith lamb, beef and venison over the next 5+ years. A clonal and vineyard selection by Braden Crosby, the fruit fully destemmed and fermented with whole berries to 14.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 35% new French oak barrels. Made by the logical, creative and precise” Braden Crosby. 70 dozen made. 18.5/20 Dec 2016 RRP $54.00

Paddy Borthwick ‘Right Hand’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2013

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

18.5+/20
Even ruby-red colour with slight purple hues, lighter edged. This has a full, broad and solid bouquet with deep aroma of savoury dark-red berry fruit melded with dried herb and complex stalk and undergrowth note, along with hits of game and spicy oak. This is complex and quite complete in presentation. Medium-full bodied, the palate is firm with a concentrated core unfolding bright and lively flavours of savoury dark-red berry fruits and a complex layering of dried herbs and undergrowth, along with nuances of game and spice. The wine has vibrancy and vitality, with the fruit supported by fine-grained tannin extraction and structure, and brisk, refreshing acidity providing energy and linearity. The wine carries to a rich, succulent and sustained, savoury, complex detailed finish with grip and energy. This is a firmly concentrate, vibrant, complex-layered Pinot Noir with savoury red fruits, dried herbs undergrowth and game notes on a finely structured palate. Match with game meat dishes over the next 5-6 years. A clonal and vineyard selection by Paddy Borthwick, the fruit fully destemmed and fermented with whole berries to 14.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 35% new French oak barrels. Made by the "intuitive, impulsive and thoughtful” Paddy Borthwick. 70 dozen made. 18.5+/20 Dec 2016 RRP $54.00
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