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Featured Reviews




Paddy Borthwick 2017 Riesling and Pinot Gris

12 December,2017

Paddy Borthwick is one of the stalwarts of the Wairarapa winegrowing community. His experience has seen him making wine for over 35 years, and this has given him his quiet demeanour and strong, no-fuss work ethic. As part of the family Te Whanga farming business, the 27 ha Borthwick Vineyard, on Dakins Road, Gladstone, under Paddy’s guidance, puts out a strong range of wines, which are mainly sold overseas. There is, however a loyal domestic following. Here, I review the new release 2017 Riesling and Pinot Gris. Paddy feels that in challenging vintages especially, quality comes from "managing one’s own fruit and being able to make decisions knowing the vineyard’s capabilities”. www.borthwick.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Riesling 2017

Riesling from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

17.5+/20

Bright straw-yellow colour with pale green-gold hues, a little lighter on the edge. The nose is very tightly bound with pure aromas of limes and lemonade, along with white florals, unfolding suggestions of honeysuckle, toast and minerals. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate possesses elegantly concentrated flavours of limes and lemonade with subtle notes of white florals and minerals. The mouthfeel is fine with a firm core, and the wine flows with good linearity. Very refined fruit extract textures and soft, lacy acidity balances the fruit. This is pure and focussed, and carries to a lingering finish with toasty nuances. This is an elegantly concentrated dry Riesling with pure lime and lemon flavours with floral and mineral elements on a refined palate. Serve as an aperitif, and with Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese fare over the next 4-5 years. Fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard, picked clean with no botrytis, cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 12.1% alc. and 5.7 g/L RS, TA 8.6 g/L and pH 2.96. 18.0/20 Mar 2018 RRP $22.00

Bright straw-yellow colour with light gold-green hues, paler on the rim. The nose is softly full with aromas of lime fruit entwined with hints of honeysuckle, sherbet and musk nuances, along with yellow florals and hints of minerals. This has good depth and intensity. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate is elegant in expression with a finely concentrated core of lime fruit and yellow florals, and a suggestion of honeysuckle with mineral notes. The fruit has good depth and is enlivened by light, lacy, crisp acidity, and the wine flows along a fine-textured line, leading to a dry finish of limes, yellow florals and minerals. This is a finely concentrated dry Riesling with lime, floral and mineral flavours on a fresh palate. Serve as an aperitif, and with Asian fare over the next 4 years. Clean fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard, cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 12.0% alc. and 5.7 g/L RS, TA 8.5 g/L and pH 3.05. 17.5+/20 Dec 2017 RRP $22.00

Paddy Borthwick Wairarapa Pinot Gris 2017

Pinot Gris from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington

17.5/20

Bright, pale golden-yellow colour, lighter on the edge. The nose is full with gently concentrated aromas of white and yellow stonefruits, along with nutty notes, hints of fragrant florals and mineral elements. The aromatics form an elegant, firm core. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate has gently packed flavours of white and yellow stonefruits with a little honey, and a layering of nuts. The fruit is bright and fresh, and enlivened by crisp, mouthwatering acidity. The flavours are carried by a light, phenolic-textured line to a receding finish of stonefruits. This is a fresh and lively dry Pinot Gris with a softly concentrated heart of stonefruits and nuts, with hints of minerals. Serve with most white meat dishes over the next 3-4 years. Fruit from the ‘Borthwick’ vineyard with 15% from the ‘Falloon’ block, fermented in tank with 25% in seasoned oak to 12.8% alc. and 1.9 g/L RS, the barrelled wine aged on lees. 17.5/20 Dec 2017 RRP $24.00

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