Featured Reviews




Spade Oak 2016 Viognier and Petit Manseng, and 2015 Skin Ferment Petit Manseng

08 February,2017
Gisborne can certainly be considered a hotspot region of vinous innovation, particularly with new varieties and styles. The Riversun Nursery is the source of much of the new clonal material that is being seen throughout the country. The local winegrowers have been quick to take their pickings, and we have seen many interesting and successful wines made with Viognier, Gruner Veltliner, Albarino, St Laurent and Tempranillo. Steve and Eileen Voysey of Spade Oak have been enthusiastic in trialling the new varieties, and aware of some of the new styles and trends, have applied them in making their very interesting wines.

Here, I review three wines under the ‘Vigneron’ range which gives Steve the license to indulge his winemaking. They are the 2016 Viognier, a variety that he champions in spite of lessening favour within the industry, the 2016 Petit Manseng, a rare Jurancon grape that shows real promise, and a 2015 ‘Skin Contact’ Petit Manseng, made in the contemporary cultish ‘orange wine’ style. This was Steve’s first foray into the style, investigating variety, extraction rates and the avoidance of oxidation and reductive characters among other factors. Steve certainly believes lower acid varieties are more suited to ‘orange wine’ production, and sees Viognier, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer will be positive. All three wines have been bottled in 375 ml format. www.spadeoak.co.nz

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW



Spade Oak ‘Vigneron’ Gisborne Viognier 2016

Viognier from New Zealand – Gisborne

17/20
Bright straw-yellow colour with pale golden hues and some depth, lighter on the rim. This has a softly full nose of ripe apricots and musk, along with citrus fruits and savoury honey notes. With aeration, nutty oak elements show and layers of butterscotch MLF unfold to show with strong presence. Dry to taste and medium-full bodied, the palate is softly packed and mouthfilling with flavours of apricots, musk and honey, nutty oak nuances and buttery MLF flavours that grow in breadth. The mouthfeel is fulsome and rounded, with weight and some alcoholic power and drive. The wine flows smoothly on a soft-textured, near unctuous line, leading to a full finish of stonefruits, nuts and butterscotch. This is a soft and fulsome Viognier with power and presence, showing apricot, honey and buttery MLF flavours. Match with Middle Eastern and Asian fare over the next 3+ years. Fruit from the ‘Spade Oak’ vineyard, vines 17 y.o., indigenous yeast barrel-fermented to 13.5% alc. and 0.96 g/L RS, the wine aged 5 months on lees in 95.5% seasoned French oak with 100% MLF. (375 ml) 1,000 bottles made. 17.0/20 Feb 2017 RRP $21.00

Disclaimer: This wine is distributed by ‘Wine2Trade’, the company under which ‘Raymond Chan Wine Reviews’ operates

Spade Oak ‘Vigneron’ Gisborne Petit Manseng 2016

Other White from New Zealand – Gisborne

18/20
Brilliant straw-yellow colour with lemon-gold hues and some depth, lighter edged. The nose is elegantly concentrated with deep aromas of tangerines and mandarins, along with yellow stonefruits, exotic florals, nuances of herbs and some lifted confectionary notes. Dry to taste and medium-full bodied, the palate features fresh and vibrant flavours of exotic citrus fruits and florals, entwined with stonefruit and confectionary detail. The mouthfeel is crisp and enlivened by brisk acidity, and the wine carries along a fine phenolic threaded line with good energy and tension, leading to a long lingering finish of citrus fruits, esters and confectionary. This is a fresh, brisk, intensely fruited Petit Manseng with exotic citrus fruit and floral flavours and confectionary elements. Match with seafood and creamy-sauced white meat dishes over the next 4 years. Fruit from the ‘Spade Oak’ vineyard, vines 6 y.o., indigenous yeast fermented in tank and finished in barrel to 14.5% alc. and 3.0 g/L RS, TA 8.0 g/L and pH 3.25, the wine aged 5 months on lees in seasoned oak, with no MLF. (375 ml) 500 bottles made. 18.0/20 Feb 2017 RRP $21.00

Disclaimer: This wine is distributed by ‘Wine2Trade’, the company under which ‘Raymond Chan Wine Reviews’ operates

Spade Oak ‘Vigneron’ Gisborne Skin Ferment Petit Manseng 2015

Other White from New Zealand – Gisborne

17+/20
Light orange colour with a tawny suggestion, showing some depth, and a lighter rim. The nose is firm and concentrated with densely packed aromas of oranges and mandarins melded with herbal, stalk and tea notes, along with earth, nutty and caramel oak elements. Dry to taste and full-bodied, the palate possesses flavours of oranges and mandarins entwined with herbs, tea, and complexing nutty and caramel oak elements. The flavours are underlined by firm, grainy extraction and phenolicsthat build to provide a drying mouthfeel. The acidity is fresh and lacy, providing energy and tension, and the structure, along with some alcoholic drive carries the wine to a dry, concentrated finish of ripe citrus fruits, tea, bitter herbs and caramel. This is a firm and grainy-textured skin contact Petit Manseng orange wine with complex citrus, herb, tea and caramel flavours. Match with roasted pork over the next 3-4+ years. Fruit from the ‘Spade Oak’ vineyard, vines 5 y.o., destemmed, the uncrushed berries fermented in two sealed barriques with indigenous yeasts, on skins for 288 days, to 15.5% alc. and 1.9 g/L RS, TA 8.3 g/L and pH 3.36, the wine given a further 9 months barrel aging on full lees, with no MLF. (375 ml) 500 bottles made. 17.0+/20 Feb 2017 RRP $21.00

Disclaimer: This wine is distributed by ‘Wine2Trade’, the company under which ‘Raymond Chan Wine Reviews’ operates

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