Ata Rangi 2016 ‘Crimson’ and 2015 Martinborough Pinot Noirs
Ata Rangi 2016 ‘Crimson’ and 2015 Martinborough Pinot Noirs
11 April,2017
As one of the pioneering wineries of the Martinborough
district, Ata Rangi has an illustrious record with its Pinot Noir wines. Having won countless gold medals and top awards
both in New Zealand and on the global scene, Ata Rangi Pinot Noir is quite
rightly one of the great wines made in this country. Founder Clive Paton, his wife Phyll Pattie,
his sister Alison and their team have over the years developed a most beautiful
style of elegance, finesse, detail and complexity from their source of
vineyards in the district centred around their base on Puruatanga Road on the
Martinborough Terrace.
Of prime importance is the growing maturity of the Pinot
Noir vines, the first planting yielding in 1983. The vine age has resulted in greater richness,
balance and consistency not only in the flagship wine, but also the second tier
‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir, which was originally created to take the fruit of younger
plants, but now, the age of the vines is more than that of other premium wines
in the district. As time has progressed,
the vines have also become more integrated with the vineyard sites, this
further enhancing their balance and performance. Another aspect resulting in the character and
quality of the Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs is the use of the Abel clone, deemed
particularly suitable in the Martinborough district. It accounts for a significant proportion of
Ata Rangi’s plantings.
The above points were discussed with winemaker Helen Masters
during a visit I made to Ata Rangi at the end of February, when I tasted a
number of 2016 Pinot Noir barrel samples (click here the see my report). What I also saw in this visit was Helen’s
knowledge, experience and approach in making the Ata Rangi Pinot Noirs. The detail and timing of action in the
vineyards was deemed crucial for the best wine to be made. Helen attributes much of this from the
accumulated experience she, the Patons and their team have gleaned over the
period of over three decades in growing fruit and making the wines.
The vintages from 2013 to 2016 have been excellent ones for
the Martinborough vignoble. It has been
an exciting time for winegrowers in the district and for consumers who enjoy
the wines from there. Here, I review the
new release 2016 ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir and 2015 Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot
Noir. This 2015 makes a fascinating
comparison with the 2013, a wine of richness, structure, sinew and nervosity
and the 2014, which shows plush opulence and decadence. For me, the 2015 has precision and is a
complete, seamless wine.
www.atarangi.co.nz
Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington Review Date - 26-Oct-2017    18.5/20
Moderately deep, cerise-ruby red with youthful purple
hues. This is ripe, up-front and juicy
with sweet, aromatic fruits, with dark raspberries and cherries and plum
notes. This is easy to access and is
inviting with its sweetness. Beautifully
and fully ripe on palate, the fruit is sweet and juicy, with raspberries and
plums. The fruit is underlined by fine
tannin extraction providing noticeable structure and grip. The primary fruit as I saw when last tasted
is giving way to the extract. The
acidity lends freshness and vibrancy still.
Hand-picked fruit, clones 5, 10/5, Abel and Dijon clones, vines 5-20
y.o., destemmed and indigenous yeast fermented with a high proportion of whole
berries to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. 18.5/20
Oct 2017 RRP $36.00
Full, deep, dark ruby-red colour with youthful purple hues,
a little lighter on the edge. The nose
is full and up-front with voluminous aromas of dark raspberries with notes of
blackberries, lifted whole berry fermentation plum jam notes, unfolding
liquorice and raspberry liqueur elements.
This is very primary in expression and very accessible on nose. Medium-full bodied, the palate is rich and
plush with succulently sweet and luscious flavours of ripe dark raspberries,
blackberries and plums, unfolding red liquorice and raspberry liqueur
layers. The fruit is supported by
fine-grained, supple tannins and enlivened by fresh background acidity. The mouthfeel is rounded and approachable,
the richness carrying the wine to a soft, fruit-laden finish. This is a rich and succulent, primary-fruited
Pinot Noir with fine, supple tannins, a rounded mouthfeel and plenty of
vibrant, primary energy and freshness.
It needs a few months to harmonise, but is already delicious. Serve with Asian and Middle Eastern fare over
the next 4-5 years. Hand-picked fruit,
clones 5, 10/5, Abel and Dijon clones, vines 5-20 y.o., destemmed and
indigenous yeast fermented with a high proportion of whole berries to 13.5%
alc., the wine aged 10
months in 20% new French
oak. Proceeds of sales of this wine go
towards ‘Project Crimson’ for the conservation of the native Rata and
Pohutakawa. 18.5/20 Apr 2017
RRP $36.00
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Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Wairarapa & Wellington Review Date - 26-Oct-2017    19.5+/20
Deepish ruby-red with youthful purple hues. This has a full, ripe and layered nose,
multi-faceted with dark red berry fruits, an array of red and violet florals,
and subtle dark herb elements, some whole bunch showing (?), all interwoven and
quite complete in all dimensions. Rich,
sweetly ripe, rounded and mouthfilling with a very finely concentrated core,
with layers of flavour, with fruits herbs and oak all in harmony. The mouthfeel is one of richness and finesse,
the tannins velvety, with piquant acidity and there is underlying power. Incredibly beautiful. 40% Abel clone, the remainder 5, Dijon clones
and 10/5 from the company’s oldest vines, indigenous yeast fermented with 35%
whole bunches to 13.5% alc., the wine spending 20-26 days on skins and 11
months in 35% new French oak. 19.5+/20 Oct 2017
RRP $75.00
Full, very dark, deep, ruby-red colour with youthful purple
hues, a little lighter on the rim. The
nose is elegantly concentrated with a deep, dense core of well-ripened dark-red
cherry and berry fruit seamlessly melded with subtle dark-red florals, dark
herbs, spices and oak elements, unfolding black-berried fruits. The aromatics are exceptionally harmonious
and integrated, and the nose is quite complete.
Medium-full bodied, the palate features rich and succulently sweet
flavours of dark-red cherry and berry fruits along with black fruits lifted by
dark-red and violet florals and subtle notes of dark herbs. Suggestions of spice and oak emerge. The flavours are beautifully precise,
detailed and harmoniously balanced, and the mouthfeel very supple and
fine-textured with flowery tannin extraction.
The acidity is integrated and provides vitality for the refined core and
line. The wine flows seamlessly to a
long and sustained, complete finish.
This is a beautifully rich and multi layered and detailed Pinot Noir of
precision and harmony, with succulently sweet fruit and refined structure,
enabling accessibility, and showing completeness. It will develop fine complexities over the
next 7-10 years. Serve with poultry,
pork, lamb and venison dishes. 40% Abel
clone, the remainder 5, Dijon clones and 10/5 from the company’s oldest vines, indigenous
yeast fermented with 35% whole bunches to 13.5% alc., the wine spending 20-26
days on skins and 11 months in 35% new French oak. 19.5+/20
Apr 2017 RRP $75.00
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