I had a visit from Nick Candy, a Nelson-based natural wine producer. In explaining his approach and philosophies in making wine, he discussed the points as outlined above. His aim is to make the best and most enjoyable wine he can, as within the universal parameters for quality, but employing techniques of avoiding any additives and unnecessary inputs and action, both in the vineyard and in the winery. He is aware that his methodology will take him to limits and maybe beyond of what appears normal and acceptable. But the desire for great wine is the reason. The market needs an open approach, and if this is the case, then the boundaries of what is accepted will no doubt slowly change to encompass what is seen as extreme nowadays.
Tincan ‘Wilful White’ 2016
Cloudy, light orange colour with some depth, a little lighter on the edge. The nose is fresh with bright aromas of savoury citrus fruits, yellow stonefruits and quince, with an amalgam of herbs, florals and yeasty-nutty lees. This has steely wet-stone elements adding to the freshness. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate is crisp and steely, quite refreshing, with flavours of savoury citrus fruits, stonefruits and quince, with herb, nutty, lees and mineral notes. The palate has presence and some power, with lively acidity along with fine, grainy phenolic textures that grow as the wine flows. The structure and grip carry the wine to a dry, thirst-quenching, textural finish. This is a grainy textured, but fresh and lively Pinot Gris-based white wine with savoury citrus and stonefruit, quince, herb and leesy flavours. Serve with pork and veal over the next 2+ years. A blend of 60% Pinot Gris fermented on skins for 2 months, the remaining 40% a field blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer. 12.5% alc. 16.5+/20 Nov 2017 RRP $33.00
Moderately deep ruby red colour with slight garnet hues, lighter on the rim, and a little cloudy. The nose is elegant in proportion with softly packed and dense aromas of savoury strawberry fruit harmoniously melded with herbs and earth, a little nuttiness and subtle complexing stalk nuances. Medium-bodied the palate has flavours of savoury strawberries with herb notes, stalk nuances and earth. The flavours are gently mouthfilling and supported by grainy tannin extraction with fresh lacy acidity providing energy. The extraction and zestiness carry the wine to a lingering, savoury red fruited and herb-flavoured finish. This is a well-proportioned Pinot Noir-based red with savoury strawberry, herb, stalk and earthy flavours on a grainy-textured, lively palate. Match with herb-marinated poultry and pork dishes over the next 3-4 years. A blend of 65% Pinot Noir carbonic fermented, with 20% Syrah and 15% Pinot Gris. 11.5% alc. 16.0+/20 Nov 2017 RRP $33.00
Slightly opaque golden-hued yellow colour with some depth, lighter on the rim, with light, fine effervescence. The nose is fresh with attractively fresh and fragrant aromas of white and green stonefruits with lifted white florals and subtle herbal elements. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate has a fresh and lively mouthfeel with lifted flavours of white and green stonefruits with yellow florals and herbal notes. The palate has light phenolic textures balanced by light effervescence and fresh, lacy acidity. The wine is vibrant and the flavours flow with good depth and length, leading to a dry, citrus and herb nuanced finish. This is a refreshing, stonefruit, floral and herb flavoured Pet-Nat sparkling with light effervescence and a balanced, phenolic-textured line. Match with salads and vegetables, and Mediterranean fare over the next 2 years. Sauvignon Blanc, the components undergoing barrel-ferment, skin ferment and carbonic ferment, with Riesling added for sweetness for secondary ferment. (17.5/20) Nov 2017 RRP $TBA
Light orange colour with some depth, pale on edge, and somewhat opaque. The nose is soft, but intense with fresh fruit aromas of gooseberries, quince, green beans and citrus fruits. The aromatics are piquant and has depth. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate has an amalgam of green stonefruits, gooseberries, citrus fruit and green beans with notes of quince and herbs. The mouthfeel shows light phenolic textures and fresh, underlying acidity. The palate flows with good vitality, the flavours narrowing and tightening up as it carries to a light, sustained, herb-nuanced finish. This natural Sauvignon Blanc has a flavour amalgam of green stonefruits, gooseberries, citrus fruits, green beans and herbs on a fresh, fine-textured palate. Match with herb-marinated white meat dishes over the next 2+ years. Sauvignon Blanc, approx. 30% barrel-fermented with full solids, approx. 30% fermented 28 days on skins, and approx. 30% carbonic fermented and pressed to amphora, plus 8% barrel-fermented Chardonnay with 5% Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. Provisional score: (16.5+/20) Nov 2017 RRP $TBA
Dark, deep ruby-red colour with slight black hues, lighter edged. The nose is softly fresh with aromas of dark raspberries, blackberries along with black pepper, entwined with subtle herb and whole bunch stalk notes. The aromatics show good depth. Medium-bodied, the palate has sweet fruit flavours of dark-red cherries and raspberries with black pepper. Nuances of dark herbs and subtle whole bunch stalk notes add detail. Some white pepper and violet florals emerge on mid-palate. The fruit is supported by light, grainy tannin structure and the mouthfeel is enlivened by fresh, lacy acidity. The wine carries to a soft, light finish. This is a dark-red fruited, peppery Pinot Noir-based wine with soft fruitiness and light tannin grip and lacy acid freshness. Match with wild duck and pork over the next 3+ years. 50% from the ‘Home’ block, one-third each destemmed Pinot Noir, whole bunch Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (less than 15% overall), and 50% destemmed Pinot Noir from a site in Waipapa. Provisional score: (16.5/20) Nov 2017 RRP $TBA